Circumnavigation of the Baltic 13

13 The road to Helsingor 

I left the campsite, it was a smart well-kept and kempt campsite, but I do wish they wouldn’t manicure the grass just before I get there, there was grass-cuttings everywhere. I had to give the rugs and floor a good brushing and vacuuming before setting off. I bought some rolls, paid up and hit the Motorway down South. I had been reading a PI brochure, you know the type that are piled high in every info centre and campsite and it had a bit about Elk Parks that I would be passing en-route. Now Linda had been moaning how when in Australia she had never seen a Koala or a Kangaroo, in USA never seen a black, brown or grizzly bear and now traveling round the Baltic, a place that is supposed to be crawling with them, not an Elk was to be had. 

So I decided to do it for her and get her some photographs, now these wild (sic) animals are fenced in, so you would think it would be easy, I of course went to the wrong end of quite a large enclosure, climbed a high-seat (kansel), took a photograph of a crow sitting atop a dead tree (reason being I thought it was a kite at first),

I photographed a butterfly, very interesting but not what I came for. 

Just when I was giving up hope and about to go and ask for my money back, I saw a family pointing and staring, so I legged it to the other end of the enclosure and there a herd, albeit a small herd of Elk.

Lying peacefully in the late morning sun, doing what all ruminary animals do chew cud. So photographs taken, popped into the shop to get an Elk in a Sweden sweater for Aiden and a little something for Linda. It was then back on the road to Helsingborg.

And once again it is better to make no plans, I arrived at Helsingborg and was only planning to go down to the Ferry to make sure of the way tomorrow, I saw a ferry (Hamlet) loading I asked the lady when it was about to leave , she said in about 1 minute, so I said give me a ticket so that is why I am writing this from Denmark.

The last time I crossed this stretch of water my ship was in dry-dock in Copenhagen getting a new engine, I had plenty of time on my hands and one of the Guarantee Engineers insisted on taking me up to Sweden for the day. I was amazed, as the same passengers were still on the ferry when we returned late that evening, he explained due to the difference in Spirit duty and duty free, there are some that board on a Friday evening and do not get off again until Sunday, just drinking alcohol (it doesn’t matter what) and going backwards and forwards  all the time. Worse than being at sea, the trip only takes 15mins. The ferries are now much plusher affairs and at least the vehicle ones had none of the excesses of bye gone days (the price of the ticket could have something to do with it).

We docked, no customs these days and off I jolly well went.

I think that the Island Zealand must be the most congested Island in the world, I was in almost complete tail-backs from leaving Helsingor until well past Copenhagen, of course I was going to go a different route (via Roskilde, just to see what all the fuss is about) but because of Missy in the cab playing up, I missed the turning, so it was motorway and more motorway. 

But I had a had a chance to look at campsites and saw that there was one just beside the Store-belt bridge, well what a chance to see the construction from close up. Having flown over it, passed under it I was now about to cross over it as I was about to complete my circumnavigation of the Baltic.

It was a beautiful evening, the campsite is more of a family sort of place, it has a nice beach and loads of kids running wild, but that is what school holidays are for. I made myself a couple of rolls filled with the last of the Finish Pork. 

In the background a cadet band played brassband music, I stopped and listened for a while and then went for a walk to the bridge entrance, had a chat with the security guard (he was a bit nosey about what I was doing taking photographs of the pay-booths).

I then walked to the quay wall were a few chaps were angling for mackerel and being quite successful, they were Turkish asylum seekers and we got on chatting, one said no matter how bad they are here, it is 100% better than back in Turkey under the present dictatorship (their words not mine). I didn’t ask but I think they could have been Turkish Christians, as they had packs of pork spare-ribs to go along with the mackerel. They were just stoking up the BBQ  ready for their super so I decided to walk the short distance to camp and watch a bit of TV, I had seen the first part of a very good Krimi on Monday and the second part was on later and then a Wallader was on, so  quite a good TV evening.

Up at 06:00 and showered before the rush, coffee made and sat writing up this before hitting the road, I am heading across to the North Sea today and more than likely tomorrow as well, I think I shall pop into Esbjerg, It used to be one of our crossing points, that and Hamburg to Newcastle, things were so much easier in the good old days, now we must travel to Amsterdam or Rotterdam.

On to the island of Rømø

Ok time to get the camper ready for first inspection and head for the Bridge!

The trip across the two Belts was uneventful, though the view was rather spectacular.

The name to make every British school boy giggle

The old Esjbery to Newcastle ferry terminal

I popped into Esjberg, took a couple of photos of this much changed port, it now builds massive turbines for the offshore wind farms, there was also a British Sail training ship in and a strange vessel was just leaving harbour, the likes I have never seen in my life.

It was then onwards down the coast.

I arrived Safe and sound on the Island of Rømø, to get to it you don't need a ferry, you cross a causway on top of a damm called the Rømøvei as damms go it is as unspectacular as any other.

I have never been on the island before, but I do have a close relationship with it. I lived with an old Dane in Rheda, Heinz Hansen, he had as a small lad been sent away from Rømø, his parents could not afford to keep him, the island wasn’t full with rich tourists as it is now, but was a very poor agricultural land. So he was sent off to the then rich Westfalia of Rheda, were he learnt a trade as a woodcarver for one of the best chair manufacturers in Germany, in between Heinz did a spell in the U-boats during WW2, he survived and to the end of his days he carved and drank, he had a small workshop in his garage, were he entertained his Alten Kameraden. He always called Rømø home and still visited his sisters every couple of years, he died just before I moved into my last abode in Rheda. I often think of that Old Danish Seaman. RIP.

I crossed the Dam to the island and soon found the  campsite, it is a roomy expansive site with plenty of space, I was able to get a pitch not far from the  reception, close to the ablutions and strongest signal. We shall see.

I had not had any breakfast and it was past midday so I decided to go to Havneby, the main harbour on the island,

I decided on Fish and Chips, I had picked up a pamphlet in the reception and it suggested Otto and Ani’s Fisk.

so I tried their breaded cod with chips, I must say it was some of the best I have tasted, Not a monster portion that you are likely to get in the NE of England,but all freshly cooked and a small side salad, I was in my element. I then drove across to Germany and filled up, I could have done it the day after tomorrow, but I wanted to see the countryside as this area is a Danish Nation Park. Tomorrow I shall explore the island and see if I can get some good wader photographs, I already have a nest full of baby Swifts in the bag.