The Storks of Böbs

The Storks of Böbs
A Very Fine Pair

Wild boar ragu with gnocchi - Wildschwein ragout mit Gnocchi

Sunday 24 July 2011

It’s a funny old world at times, I had decided at the weekend that I would have a bit of game, so I got what I thought was a couple of hare legs, but when I thawed out, the packet turned out to be a boned wild boar shoulder, ah well change of recipe!

I now decided to do a wild boar ragout with chanterelles and baby mushrooms and home made Gnocchi and that it would have a nice strong sauce, so to this end I bought a couple of bottles of fairly reasonable Bordeaux.

So Sunday morning arrived ,or at least I think it did, as I had been out at the footy club the night before and this can mist the memory.

So I had a boned shoulder of wild boar from a spring shoot (not mine, but a hunt friend), 2 bottles of reasonable Bordeaux, a bunch of suppengrün,

2 handfuls of chanterelles ( pfifferlingen), 100g baby mushrooms ,some floury potatoes and a couple of onions.

So the ingredients for this meal are:

1000g of wild boar shoulder, trimmed of sinew and diced into 2.5mm cubes.

100g of speck or diced streaky smoked bacon.

50g of air dried ham (just because I had some that needed using up)

1 bunch of suppengün (soup vegetables consisting of a piece of celeriac, a couple of leeks and three carrots as well as a bunch of parsley (this I used not in the stock but in the mushroom s)

2 bottles of red Bordeaux (you never know when the second will come in handy)

50ml of red wine vinegar

700g of floury potatoes

2 eggs

150g of plain wheat flour (+ enough for dusting)

50g of butter

A small handful of sage

100g of pepper cured and cooked pork belly

About 3 onions, it may have been 4

A few cloves of garlic (say 5)

A good dusting of my game spices

A teaspoon of sweet paprika

4-5 Juniper berries

Ground rosemary

Teaspoon of white mustard seeds

Fresh ground black pepper

A piece of cinnamon bark (2.5mm or 1”)

4 cloves

600g of good stock

Oil for frying


Put the cubed wild boar into a dish with a good dusting of game spices, and rosemary, add a chopped onion and a couple of crushed cloves of garlic, add the mustard seed, cinnamon, cloves and fresh ground pepper. Add half a bottle of wine and the red wine vinegar. Cover and leave in a cool place for a couple of hours (over night if possible).

When you are ready to make your ragu, dice the root vegetables into a small dice, dice your speck, onions and garlic. Heat some oil in a wide heavy based frying pan at the same time heat some oil in a cast iron casserole, fry the speck, onions, veg and garlic in the casserole. Brown the dried cubed wild boar in the frying pan over a high heat (do not try to fry too many at a time or they will start to stew and not brown).

Add the browned meat with the air dried ham to the vegetables in the casserole and add some of the wine and stock to the frying pan to deglaze, pour this over the meat and add the remainder of the stock and the marinade.

Put the lid on and into the oven at 170°C for 3hours (at least).

Making the Gnocchi

Cook the potatoes (some do them in their skins and then peal them when cooked and still hot (this has been known to causes blister on your fingers) and then press them though a ricer, add 150g of plain white four and 2 eggs and mix well add salt to taste.

Flour a board and roll out the potato dough into long rolls I made mine into about 20cm lengths and cut them into 8 pieces, roll them into cylinders and flatten with the back of a fork.

Next clean the mushrooms and dice the peppered belly, dice an onion and a couple of cloves of garlic, heat some oil in a frying pan, add the ingredients and slowly sauté the mushroom, onion, speck mixture. Add a handful of chopped parsley when finished.

Now put the gnocchi into boiling salted water when they rise to the surface they are ready remove with a slotted spoon and set to one side

In the same pan that you sautéed the mushrooms in  heat the butter and when foaming add the sage, then add the gnocchi keep them moving so that they don’t stick to the bottom.

Now the ragout should be ready, take out of the oven,

if to far reduced add a bit more wine and reduce until it had reached the consistency of your taste (some like it thick and some like it thin)

Serve with a good portion of the gnocchi and sautéed mushrooms

A gap in the clouds and a Summer BBQ

Saturday 16 July 2011

This was the Kikoklu summer BBQ and we had invited a couple of friends along as guests. The menu had been arranged over the past couple of weeks.

The planning actually started long before the event, but I shall start off with Friday, Linda and I had arranged to meet up at the wholesalers (CITTI) in Kiel. I had been able to get an early get-a-way as Friday is terrible on the A2 & the A7 Autobahn at the best of time, but at times of the school holidays it is absolute pandemonium.

I actually made quite good time and arrived at Citti an hour before the arranged 18:00 so I went in and got all of my victuals’ for the Saturday BBQ. I had planned to do smoked Baltic Arctic Saibling (Charr-Salvelinus alpinus), but when looking along the fresh fish counter, my eyes alighted on a wonder, fresh Bachforellen (brown trout - Salmo trutta fario). Now the anglers amongst us will know the way to tell a good fresh fish, bright eyes, deep red gills, but these where so fresh that the slime was still running off them, I fell in love with them and had to elope with them there and then, all 8 of them!

I then went shopping for my flour and yeast for the carrot and cumin bins for the game burgers.

I had just finished my shopping when Linda texted me telling me she had just arrived, I said well I have just finished. We met at the check out and I took my stuff down to the car. Linda had said that she was taking me for a spot of Dinner? High Tea? So we went straight to the Gosh fish restaurant inside Citti (where I had been earlier to get my brown trout).

Linda had something exotic, I do believe prawns or some such other crustacean, but I settled for one of my all time favourites’,  Bratheringe mit Bratkartoffeln (pickled fried herring with fried potatoes). I do make these from time to time, but honestly, why bother when you can get them served up with a glass of wine for €15,-

We next went and got Linda’s shopping essentials (she was doing the gazpacho soup with tapenade twists and Tandoori prawns on skewers).

So it was off home to do the pre-prep. I had brought some defrosted diced mixed game (red deer, wild boar, pigeon breasts) and some diced pork belly this required marinating. I used gin, martini bianco, cassis and a good dusting of my game spices.

a drop of this and a drop of that


the mixed game well mixed and set to marinade for 12 hours

I next put the trout into a 7% brine solution ( I normally make up my own, but this time I used a herb de Provence propriety brand. That was the easy part done. We opened a bottle of wine and settled down to watch a bit of TV recordings.

8 fantastic brown trout

21g of brining salt for 3ltrs of water

keep your heads down fellas
Saturday morning dawned dull and misty, the question was it to be me on the balcony in my oil skins and sou’ wester and the rest enjoying life inside or would the weather be ok and we could all enjoy life in the Hof.

I was about bright and early and went across to the market to get the remainder of the BBQ supplies (carrots, Coeur de boeuf tomatoes, zucchinis, sweet long green Turkish peppers). Returning back it was removal of the trout from the brine, drying and covering to keep the flies away.

Next came the mincing of the game and pork adding the rest of the ingredients (cranberries, sauted onions, garlic) and forming the patties.

I also had to start of Dan Lepards Carrot and Cumin buns, these are such a delight and they where first suggested to me by Gill (gillthepainter) another blogger and friend from the BBC and Wildfood boards.
Here is his recipe etc from the Guardian:

First grate 500g of carrots

Add 250ml of boiling water to 250g cold milk and then add the instant dried yeast

adding a diced onion (1 medium or as in this case 2 small)

give it all a good mixing
1 kg of strong bakers flour and 200g of corn flour

well mix the all of the ingredients together and allow to raise

Giving it a good knead as was needed every 10 minutes for 10 seconds (twice) then leave to rise for 45 minutes

This done I had to go out to pick up another table, a couple of chairs, some beer, bottled water and various other odds and sods that Linda had forgotten.

Backjust in time to stop it escaping and  to get the buns formed and into the oven.

The dough starting to take over the kitchen

forming the buns

So it was now down to getting the Hof ready, BBQ and smoker filled and ready to fire up, tables and chairs out and covered, glasses, plates and cups etc, all on the tables, serviettes folded (not my job that).

For once we where in front, every thing was ready, but oh no! no ice, quick phone call to Marianne can they pick up some ice on the way here (the ice was to keep the wine and beer cold).

15:00 the weather was sunny and warm, I dashed upstairs had a shower and put a pair of shorts on (NO I had not been down in the Hof naked), well it is after all a summer BBQ.

It was:

Starter Kai’s Bommerlunder Cocktail

Kai the butler

Linda’s Gazpacho and tapenade twists

My smoked fish

tender, succulent and falling off the bones

Linda’s Tandoori prawn skewers

Martins Schaschlik

My game burgers

Squeezing it flat so it would fit!

A look of pain and a look of contentment

I had made some Aioli to go with the burgers, topped with coeur de Boeuf tomatoes and sweet onions

Sebastian and Kalles concocting the desserts.

Grilled pineapple

Chocolate coconut spring rolls

Added to  home made elderflower ice cream, chocolate dipped strawberries and a strawberry coolie gives you one hell of a dessert

Carolyn, Marianne and Sebastian had made a selection of wonderful salads to accompany the various courses.

Kai had baked some nice spicy flat bread

Wines various rosé (pink) and white wines

A suitable wine for the fish "James"

A discussion about Kalle's loin cloth?

It was a wonderful afternoon, all of the food went down a treat and even if we (as is normal) had made far, far too much no one went hungry. I am eating a game burger and some of Carolyn’s potato salad as I write this. The wines (I do recollect doing a wine tasting at Jaques where we tried one of the pinks) were exemplary and fittingly suited to the afternoon/evening.

So I wish to thank all of the other Kikokluers and our guests for making it such a success, also to Martin for his troubadour act on the guitar, we did have a nice sing song (that was the Royal ‘WE’).

Linda where is Alfons?????